Section

Hidden Gems

Not a list of places that have been called hidden gems so often they no longer are. What this section actually contains: the hill town in the Marche that has the same density of medieval architecture as San Gimignano and a tenth of the visitors. The trattoria in a Palermo courtyard that has no website and no reviews and a handwritten menu that changes daily. The stretch of Calabrian coastline where the water is the same colour as Positano and the beach has no sunbeds. The wine region in Friuli that produces bottles that sell out in Berlin and are unknown twenty kilometres away in Trieste.Italy is large enough and layered enough that genuine under-visited places still exist — you just have to know which questions to ask. This section is edited by people who actually went there, in the off-season, without a photographer, and found it worth writing about.