Section

Traditional Dishes

Every Italian region has dishes that exist nowhere else in the world and that, made correctly, are as complex and satisfying as anything in the French canon. The pici cacio e pepe of the Sienese hills. The bigoli in salsa of the Venetian bacari. The cùnscia of Valtellina, which uses buckwheat pasta and local cheese in proportions that should not work as well as they do. The bomba di riso of Piacenza, which involves a rice crust filled with pigeon and porcini and is almost never made outside a domestic kitchen.This section approaches traditional Italian dishes with the seriousness they deserve: documented from primary sources, with regional variations noted, historical context included where it illuminates the recipe, and enough practical detail to make them at home without pretending that the result will be the same as the one from the nonna who has been making it for sixty years. It will be close. That is worth something.