Sicily

Sicily is the Mediterranean in concentrated form: Greek temples still standing in almond groves, a baroque city rebuilt after a seventeenth-century earthquake in a style of such theatrical excess it looks designed for opera, a street food culture in Palermo that has absorbed Arab, Norman, and Spanish influences and made something that belongs entirely to itself. The island is large enough and varied enough that a week barely makes a dent — the volcanic east around Etna and the Greek west around Agrigento and Selinunte are separated by landscape and atmosphere as much as by distance.Our Sicily coverage approaches the island with the depth it demands — history, food, wine, landscape, and the contemporary cultural life of a place that has never been easy or simple, and is all the more interesting for it.