Umbria

The only Italian region with no coastline, Umbria turns its landlocked condition into an advantage: it is unusually green, unusually quiet, and unusually focused on the interior — on food, on wine, on the hill towns that rise out of the plain in a sequence that has been generating paintings since the fourteenth century. Assisi and Orvieto are the most visited; Spoleto, Spello, Bevagna, and Todi each hold more than they appear to from the road. The black truffle of Norcia, the lentils of Castelluccio, the Sagrantino of Montefalco: Umbrian food and wine are among the most serious in central Italy.Our Umbria coverage moves through the region at walking pace — the pace at which it actually makes sense.